Our Great Australian Adventure: From Halls Creek to Kununurra via Wyndham

Obviously, wise travellers we are not (see entry from 31/07). After the treat at Fitzroy Crossing we came back down to earth with a bump at Halls Creek. What we saw of the small town was fine, but the "grim, dusty" caravan park resembled a breakers yard. Still, it was our home for the night and we made the most of it, but left early the next morning (8am, a record for us!).

We're getting into the routine of driving here after over 2 weeks on the road. Refuelling occurs whenever you see a petrol station and not when the tank is nearly empty. Initial over-enthusiastic waves to passing camper vans has become a slightly raised 1 finger salute. Covering around 300km a day, the roads are good and there's very little traffic. What's striking is that you hardly ever pass through any kind of settlement en-route to the next destination. It's pure bush land, with the occasional homestead or farm signposted way up some dirt track. There are small herds of cattle scattered about and plenty of scavenger birds feasting on the road kill, but otherwise not much wildlife to be seen during the day. We were warned not to drive before dawn or after dusk because that's when the bush springs to life and animals can jump out onto the road. The numerous dead kangaroos and cows along the roadside are testament to that.

Shortly before Kununurra, we took a detour to Wyndham, the most northerly town in Western Australia. Lunch was at the Rusty Shed Cafe, which really was a rusty shed, with great food: barramundi burgers, spinach and hash brown wraps and croque monsieurs, followed by trifle with green jelly. Then a steep climb to the Five Rivers Lookout for a breathtaking view over the Cambridge Gulf and the 5 rivers which converge here. The scenery was used as a backdrop for the movies 'Australia', 'Mad Bastards' and 'Satellite Boy'.